Wet in Girona - Day 38

As the wind and rain  closed all outdoor cafes we set out from Llafranc on a short drive to Girona. James sent us to the wrong square to obtain a parking space, so not knowing where we were, I decided to head to our hotel and at least obtain a map. Thankfully the hotel came to our assistance by not only providing a map, but also early access to our room and an umbrella for a walk around town.

The rain did not let up, but we determined to at least see some of the old town. Disappointing that the weather was so bad because it is a very atmospheric and attractive place to look around. Lots of cobbled streets, terraced houses, fantastic shops, tapas bars and restaurants. We stopped in "Artusi" for a great 3 course menu lunch that included a main of salmon and also water and wine for 14 euro.

Walked again until thoroughly soaked then slogged back up the hill to our hotel to dry out. Think dinner in house tonight unless the rain stops.

Holiday weather - Day 37

It seems that as soon as you have a holiday by the beach it rains. Our stretch of 12 sunny days came to an end when finally there was sand and nice water to swim in. Typical of holiday towns, Llafranc is quiet in off-season, but particularly so when it rains.

The dank start to the day was a blessing though, as Gail wasn't feeling too well and I had to work on a massive sleep deficit. Our travel budget deficit may start to improve now that we are in Spain, emphasised when I bought a glass of wine that was twice the size for half the price of England.

Today we took advantage of the break in the weather to go for a walk before black clouds had us scuttling back to our hotel. Gail has curled up with a book........beach holiday indeed.

The hotel is very comfortable and seems to have a large compliment of older English people. Most of the rest of the town seems to be closing up for the winter as October approaches. We have watched a fleet of boats being hauled out of the water to be cleaned and taken to their winter homes.

Beach yesterday

Beach today

Along the Costa Brava - Day 36

We left Cadaques after a very enjoyable stay and after a few little hiccups with our navigator we wound our way back over the mountain and down into the Bay of Roses to our first stop Empuries.

This was the site of Greek and Roman settlements beginning in 600 BC. The site is a massive archaeological dig with both the early Greek city and the Roman layouts exposed. It had a good interpretive self tour set up.

 We stopped for a baguette near the beach before driving on to Llafranc for our two night stay. Got out for a stroll along the beach before the predicted wet weather tomorrow. Kept going up over the hill and along a pretty coastal walk to the next town. This is a very attractive and prosperous part of Spain.

Greek/Roman ruins

Looking back to Llafranc 

Cruising Cadaques - Day 35

Getting into the relaxed way of Spain, we had a late dinner last night after a walk around the seashore and a late breakfast this morning. Went for an explore up into the old part of town and after walking back jumped on a cruise out around the coves along the coast. Even got to see a large pod of dolphins and some interesting sights on the beaches and boats where complete swimming costumes appear optional.

Relaxed back at our hotel reading and watching WC Rugby before a wander back for dinner in the old part of town. Had a terrific seafood paella at a friendly little restaurant called La Sirena hidden in an alley up the hill. Can get used to this pace.

Hola Espania! - Day 34

The pack up and farewell went well for us this morning and we were on the road before 10.00. Just a stop to drop of all our rubbish in town before trying to find the motorway to Spain. A few strange directions from James meant that it took over an hour to get on the main road near Nimes. Once on good road the kilometres were ticked off quickly, as were the Euros in tolls.

The last section involved many hairpin turns and scary drops as we wound our way over the mountain and down to Cadaques. We were then directed through a crowded town along the waters edge to find our hotel.

Once settled we found a lovely view from our room over the bay and white-washed houses of the town. Stretched our legs in a walk around the bay where we will have quite a choice of places to eat.

View from our room

Provence finish

LToday is the last day of our stay in Provence with the Gang of Six (usually 8). It has been great to be with our friends and to take the opportunity to move at a slower Provençal pace.

The house has worked out well even though we have a couple of spare bedrooms without the Langford touring party. We missed them and hope that Al's recovery and treatment is going well.

As our last lunch out together we returned to the little town of Fontvieille and "La Patio" that Gail and I enjoyed so much 3 years ago. After the disappointment of not getting into our other restaurant in Orange, I sent a booking email to them last night. Arriving a little before the booking, we discovered that they don't take email bookings, but luckily they had a table for us........ averting much embarrassment !

The meal was of very high quality again from the amuse bouche through to the sensational desserts. The time in France has been highlighted by the wonderful food and wine, as expected........just the thing that brings the gang together. Gail and I have planned lots of walking in Spain over the next two weeks and perhaps a little less consuming.

Tonight is a last chance to enjoy our house and to mop up remaining food and wine. Tomorrow we head to Spain, while Grahams have a night in Lyon with the Thorns who return to Sydney via Hong Kong. Grahams still have Paris, London (Rugby World Cup) and Venice to go in the "Year of Tez" celebration.

Le Patio

Week in Provence - 4

Wednesday is market day in St Remy, so the group, minus Frank went in to battle the crowds and soak up the atmosphere. The place was crowded with stalls in the square and down each little street leading out. Before the big depart we rested over a nice lunch in a traditional restaurant outside the main action. That allowed us to avoid the crowds leaving.

Easy afternoon and dinner of Coq a Vin produced by Glenys.

Thursday the TD  planned a group excursion on our second last day to Orange to see the fabulous Roman Theatre and to dine at one of our favourite restaurants Le Parvis.

Firstly, though was Gail and Kez having their hair done in St Remy before lunch. Tezza did the honours of taking them in and waiting for the deed to be done. Rest of the party did a few chores before TD drove into Orange. By the time the group was rejoined it was time to lunch. Unfortunately the restaurant was fully booked........ Bugger!

We found a rustic place called Cantina nearby and enjoyed a fun meal together. Not the quality of Le Parvis, but enjoyable.

The self guided tour of the theatre proved really worthwhile. It is quite incredible what the Romans managed to build 2000 years ago and still used for plays and concerts today. But you have to ask " what have the Romans ever done for us?

Part of St Remy Market

Week in Provence - 3

Tuesday was designed to be a bit of a contrast to the hilltop villages of Monday. A route was planned to drive a little further down to the Camargue area and the coastal fishing areas.

First problem came when the two cars got separated early in the trip and the TD's car was directed by James through the centre of Arles. Somehow we managed to arrive at our first destination of Aigue Mortes at the same time, but at opposite sides of the town.

It is a medieval walled town associated with King (Saint) Louis and was once on the coast, but the Rhone River has continued to build its delta and it is now further inland. While there are the usual tourist shops and loads of restaurants, away from the main square the streets and alleys reveal a real town where people live. The surrounding walls make an impressive sight across the flats and marshes.

Lunch today in Le Gráu du Roi was across the causeway and along the canal that is the access to the sea for a fleet of large and small fishing boats. We soaked up the atmosphere and some sun while consuming seafood (steak for Tez and Frank) before a drive back through Beaucaire to our base.

My turn to do a light, late dinner on the BBQ.

Aigue Mortes

Lunch at Gráu du Roi

Week in Provence - 2

Today the Tour Director planned a route through some of the Most Beautiful Villages of France, as well as a little lunch and wine tasting.

First stop was L'isle sur La Sorgue where the girls had been to the Sunday markets. The town is crossed by arms of the River Sorgue and other creeks. It was quite busy even on a Monday. Leaving there the TD made a turn in to taste some great Gigondas and Chateaunerf wines as a special treat to the tour party.

Next was the very old hilltop town of Gordes with its warrens of stone lanes revealing incredible vistas over the surrounding area. Here we stopped for lunch "L'Artegal" restaurant for some very nice food and wine.

On to the nearby hill town of Roussillon which has cliffs of ochre that were mined and sent around France. Not surprisingly the houses were an ochre colour that light up with the sun.

Just enough time to visit Domaine de Tara where the lovely lady took us through her consistently good wines. Home for Kez to prepare us a pasta meal and enjoy the setting sun after a warm, sunny day.

L'isle

Gordes

Roussillon

Week in Provence 1

The drive from Cordes to Eyragues in Provence was much longer then expected. Despite choosing the fast roads where we could do 130 kph, the journey took over 5 hours after spending half an hour in a toll paying jam at Montpelier, and as James sent us through back alleys to get to our destination.

After finding our host Jean-Piere and the Grahams in a local bar, we followed on to our Maison in a rural location nearby.

The house is comfortable and spacious as the touring party is now only 6 instead of 11. Glenys catered for an early dinner on the patio by the pool as we made tentative plans for the week and shared stories of our adventures.

First stop was for the girls to attend the morning market in L'isle-sur-la-Sorgue, before a casual lunch on the patio. After most of us have been travelling about for several weeks now, we are happy to have a slow time here and some home cooked meals. We will enjoy the BBQ area and patio quite a bit.

Cordes sur Ciel - Day 26

A walk around St Emilion was in order this morning before the crowds descended. Last nights meal was a highlight - the Thorns had veal and the Ethos Cod, which were great, but the desert of citrus ravioli was something again.

Checked out and faced our first long drive halfway to Provence, with our overnight stop the hilltop town of Cordes sur Ciel near Albi. The SatNav (James) sent us on an interesting route of narrow, winding roads for the last bit and we were stunned to see Cordes sitting atop a high hill as we approached.

Found our ancient and atmospheric B&B toward the top. The lovely hostess Marie could speak only a little English, but she was charming and the place is quite stunning.

We enjoyed an amble through the "cite" and a much needed drink at the top bar panoramic before I found a shop creating hand-made pastels and pigments. Had to get a little souvenir of a few pieces.

Tonight it is dinner in the hotel with a home cooked meal based around local duck and local wines. The view from our bedroom and the dinner/ breakfast room is stunning!

The meal prepared by Gill and served by Marie was just unbelievable! Starting with a local sparkling on the terrace overlooking the valley we moved on to a five course meal accompanied by  Gill's selection of wines. We shared the table with a couple from Melbourne starting a 5 day walk...... At least they can walk it off! We went to bed thinking that this had to be one of the best experiences we've ever had.

Our Maison Bakea

Cordes Cite

Saint Emilion, town of wine - Day 25

Another slow start to the day as the morning run was cancelled due to heavy rain. No matter, as Tour Director had arranged a short drive to St Emilion and Kez still had to try to sort her cash card issue.

Leisurely breakfast and a car repack before we headed on to the right bank and row upon row of vineyards. 

Short wait to grab a car spot in the centre of town and dropped bags at our lodging before a heavy shower sent us in for an early lunch, as we couldn't get into our room till 3. A nice walk through this World Heritage hilltop town revealed the most wine shops and caves I have ever seen! It wasn't long before I spotted The Wine Buff, where Terry and Glen had spent a few happy hours just a fews days before.

Kez was inside and sitting at the tasting table before we had a chance to look around! The Irish host, Paddy was home resting, but his delightful Spanish wife gave us a wonderful little tasting and Kez made a few more purchases than we can possibly fit in the car.

It's not all about food and wine though (but it does feature!) so we enjoyed the walk around the town especially as the crowds thinned. Dinner tonight at the restaurant a few doors down.

Tasting at Wine Buff with Irish couple

St Emilion

Chateau country - Day 24

While I love Bordeaux city, I couldn't go to this area without a chance to see some of the country that has been so important in my love of wine. So we checked out of the lovely L'hotel Particulier and picked up our hire car to get amongst it.

A slow start and a long queue at the Avis counter meant that we eventually squeezed the four of us and our bags into the Audi close to 12.00 for a drive along the quay and out of the city.

Into chateau country around Margaux had me salivating for a tasting, but a lesson we have learned is that you don't get between a Frenchman and his lunchtime.......they were closed! So we had no choice but to join them. My choice was the Gare du Gourmande, a small restaurant converted from an old railway station where the menu consists of whatever the chef thinks is fresh and worthy. No course choice, just how many you will have.

Fantastic meal washed down with a lovely local white confirmed that wine areas are also good food areas. Spoke at length to the lovely couple running the place and they suggested the nearby Chateau Siran for a tour and tasting. It proved to be another interesting and enjoyable experience.

Time now to check into our own Chateau for the night - Chateau Meyne which is a working winery owned by a Thai family. Another terrific experience as Kez, Frank and I had a personal tasting with a lovely Chinese girl showing us their reds ( Gail opting out). Tour director acquired wine, cheeses, breads and rillettes so we spent the evening in the chateau's lounge for a light dinner......all in all a fulfilling day!

A nice lunch

Chateau Meyne

Enjoying our Chateau

Beautiful Bordeaux - Day 23

The rain was steady this morning, so we opted for a late breakfast in L'hotel. The staff here are delightful and breakfast was great. They even had some homemade cake to take back to the room for afternoon tea.

Suitably full, we managed to negotiate day tickets for the trams that run past our hotel and get you all over town. Ethos jumped off at main stop Quinconces, while Thorns decided to ride the wild rails for a while. We also spent some time using these excellent trams to get around.

Stopped for a while at the outlet shops along the quay ( guess who chose that) and had nice salad for lunch. I did my only shopping at an incredible wine shop that had a spiral staircase going up to heaven and surrounded by many famous wines.

Bought a couple to share with Thorns in our courtyard before a local dinner.

Our courtyard with its own wine centre.

Fabulous tramways, few cars and lots of pedestrian ways

Bordeaux ! - Day22

We were up early to leave our quirky, but comfy Paris apartment to meet Kez and Frank for taxi to Montpanasse station for train to Bordeaux. All went very smoothly with an efficient taxi and a very comfortable train journey to Bordeaux. Only issue was me avoiding a double hernia getting bags on and off the train. We, of course had to have a little wine before arriving in Bordeaux.

A friendly taxi driver took us to the very nice Hotel Particulier in the centre of the town, so we could enjoy an afternoon walk in the wide pedestrian boulevards of the old town. It is a very prosperous and attractive city. We enjoyed the magnificent cathedral and the Place du Borse near the river.

Kez had her cash card swallowed by the ATM so after she attempted to sort this little hiccup, we enjoyed a wine tasting in the hotel courtyard........ When in Bordeaux!

Choosing a place to eat was difficult and we opted for the Petite Bistro that received great reviews. Our experience was mixed, with Gail, in particular, drawing the short straw. I did enjoy my first Corsican wine! A post dinner stroll showed an even prettier town under lights.

Hotel Particulier

The best laid plans - Day 21

We came to Paris intending to fill in a few gaps from our previous visits. Sadly or otherwise, we will have to come back again, as we will not find time to see them this visit. We were first thwarted by almost a full day lost over the tale of the lost handbag. That was also the best weather time.

Today it was the rain that frustrated things and also spending a little too much time over lunch!

We did manage to get some washing done for us and the Thorns, which was one of the aims of having the apartment. Gail and I walked to find her a shop she wanted to visit, only to find it closed on Sunday's. I did manage to get very soaked in the process.

Lunch at L'Orangerie just a few doors down from us was a very pleasant way to spend a wet Sunday afternoon and the food was very good indeed. A little rest needed before heading out again.

After a little break the group joined what seemed like the rest of Paris on a late Sunday stroll. A little drink at the tip of the Ille de Cite and then back to our little apartment for an easy dinner of bread, cheese, pate and wine before packing for tomorrow.

L'Orangerie 

Sometimes it rains in Paris - Day 20

Woke early to a bit of sunlight through the window. Thought it apt to get out and head to Notre Dame for morning mass while Gail slept. Had a wander through the cathedral, while a small group of very aged worshipers attended mass. The predicted showers began on the way back as I picked up breakfast provisions.

A wet day ahead led us to spend some time indoors and why not our favourite art museum of Musee D'Orsay. We walked the way there while rain held off, and fortunately we ran across a tourist ticket bureau where I got tickets to the Musee. A Brilliant stroke, as we saw a huge line waiting in the now heavy rain, while we skipped the cue!

We spent a happy few hours admiring the great Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art in this wonderful building. With heavy rain still going on we took the train back to St Michael for Gail to do a little cosmetics shopping, while I hung around suspiciously by the door.

Tonight we met up with Kerry and Frank for dinner after she has been at a Masters Rowing competition near Antwerp. As it turned out it was Franks birthday - the third one we have shared with him in Europe!

After a little champers in their hotel room we took them to our little bistro around the corner early, as Kez had begun her day very early at the rowing.

Had another very nice meal. After Kez and Frank departed for an early night, Gail and I had a drink in a cafe near the Pont St Louis looking at the rear of Notre Dame and toward the Hotel de Ville while listening to a busker on the bridge play traditional French tunes on his accordion ....... Cliché, but wonderful!

Paris on a clear night after the rain is something special to wander around.

H

These are better days - Day 19

After getting Gail's bag back, we were finally able to see Paris in the light we are used to. Despite no sleep I was keen to get a bit of planned sightseeing while the weather remained kind. 

 A much happier Childbride and I strolled along the Sienne to the Jardin De Plantes enjoying the sunshine, and then along the Canal St Martin, through the Place de Voges to our favourite lunch spot the Petite Marche.

The day continued its upward arc when we fluked a table near the window and enjoyed a fantastic formula lunch of prawn/avocado starter and monkfish main. A little Lanson champagne and white wine brought us to a wander back for a little nap that was needed for the tour director.

Late afternoon we strolled up Boulevard St Germain and at Pont Neuf we joined a sunset cruise on the river, taking in the sights. Afterwards, we had a  walk past Notre Dame, as the bells chimed, to our last stop of our favourite bistro to take the chance to thank Silvio for helping as translator in retrieving the bag.

We were greeted by the staff as old friends....... We already have a local haunt.

Can't believe the difference in our feelings today!

Gail with the bag!

Canal St Martin

Going to Sienne cruise

Relief,

Sometimes you get lucky and we've dodged a bullet. After an agonising wait at the bistro this morning and as I started to worry that the cabby wasn't coming, he pulled up with the bag and contents intact.

I handed him Gail's thank-you not and 100 euro for his troubles...... A cheap price to pay.

Lesson hopefully learned for good!

Our saviours and No 1 bistro in Paris!

Moving Day Disaster - Day 18

This morning and early afternoon was devoted to getting from Oxford to Paris in the best way possible, and that appears to be trains. Arrived at Oxford station well in time for the train to Paddington, but greeted by a crowded station trying to take the first off-peak train to London. Journey was similar to Blaxland to Central and at $50 each I can only guess what a peak fare is.

Getting from Paddington to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar was an adventure of lost ways, long marches and me shuttling bags up steps. It was a relief to get ourselves and bags on safely. Called for a celebration glass of champers as we emerged from tunnel into sunny France.

At Gare du Nord we waited in a long cue to get a taxi after bypassing all the crooks. Slow trip through traffic had us late meeting our contact for our apartment on L'ile St Louis, but in the rush out of the taxi as it blocked traffic, Gail left her handbag in the cab ....... Credit card, iPhone and worst of all her passport. We spent the afternoon trying to get help unsuccessfully. Police hard to find and useless.

Went back to our own job of contacting Australian Embassy and cancelling cards etc.

Both of us spent we searched for an easy place to eat and drink. After a few looks I remembered one nearby called Les Fous de L'ile decorated in lots of chooks.. Our waiter spoke English and had spent time in Sydney - lucky because I tried ringing Gail's missing phone one more time and the cabby answered! I quickly grabbed the waiter and he negotiated a return of Gail's bag. Not sure if I will sleep until it's is in our hands!

On to Oxford -Day 17

Time to bid farewell to Guiting Power and our home at The Hollow Bottom. The car had to be dropped off at Oxford and we had to get into our hotel near the station for our trip tomorrow. Not as easy to negotiate as road works were all around the area. Glad to get the car back again without incident.

Hotel got us an early room for which we were gateful, so after a little freshen up we went for a walk around Oxford centre. Very busy with lunchtime crowds and found that all the colleges and some other sites charged entry to look around.

Went into an interesting History of Science Museum and the Ashmolean Museum, but after 3 hours of walking Gail began to feel ill, so we wandered back to our room.

After a little kip she was good to go so we headed back, after I had done extensive research and targeted the Red Lion for dinner and drinks. It looked wonderful as we entered, but we were soon ushered out the door. It wasn't the state of my attire, but a power outage. We opted for a drink at the quirky Three Goats Heads before returning, but power still out. Dinner in an ordinary Italian before drink and stroll back. Big travel day tomorrow.

Morning traffic at Hollow Bottom

Oxford 

Foggy Bottom - Day 16

Today dawned? ..... Not quite sunny as predicted, but foggy and cold. 

Our revised plan was to head late to Woodstock ( no Jimmy Hendrix) to see Blenleim Palace, the home of the Spencer-Churchills (Marboroughs).

Arrived mid-morning while still quite cold, into the magnificent grounds of the palace and so impressed by the sheer size and opulence of the place. Was built to honour first Duke of Marlborough's victory over Louis XIV at Blenheim and it rivals the sun kings little digs at Versailles! We spent a number of fascinating hours there, augmented by displays to mark 50 years since Winston Churchills death, who was born there in 1874.

Interpretive stuff was first class, the rooms mind-boggling and the grounds expansive. Had to have a Champagne and a Salmon lunch to toast Winston in such a setting!

Sun returned for our drive home to Hollow Bottom for final evening with our adopted girls who have looked after us in the bar and restaurant. So comfortable just to have dinner again here and to climb the stairs to bed after being inspired by our intrepid 80 year old Strathfield friends, who turned up for dinner again before they fly home tomorrow.

More perfect weather

Dinner last night at home in Hollow Bottom. An elderly couple from Strathfield introduced themselves and told us their life story. He was driving back along the narrow lanes in the dark at 80 years young.

A slow start this morning ( staying over a popular pub seems less a good idea).

We used a perfect sunny day to visit more of the recommended towns and villages. Started at Wynchcombe and decided that a castle visit was in order. 

Suderley Castle is a private home in a beautiful setting and has an incredible history. Henry VIII's last wife Catherine Parr is buried here and after being one of the last Royalist strongholds, was largely destroyed by Cromwell. Much has been rebuilt and the displays covering all owners along with incredible artefacts was impressive.

We visited the town and then one of the nicest villages called Stanton, before a late afternoon tea in Lower Slaughter. Time for a little rest before heading out for dinner.

Suderley 

Stanton

Wynchcombe