Run to Paris

The last two days of our journey took us first to Champagne country before driving to CDG airport for our flight home.
Saturday was marked by the France v Australia World Cup match and so by 11.00 things appeared pretty quiet as we drove through some lovely villages in Champagne. Sadly most tasting areas were closed as well, so we drove into the capital of things Champagne- Epernay.
Driving down the beautiful avenue lined with famous Champagne houses it became evident that they were closing too. Thankfully, after finding a parking spot, we found a smaller house open to purchase a nice glass of bubbles.
I had an idea that a restaurant I had picked out six years ago was close by, and we were able to get a nice table. First class lunch at Grillade Gourmonde followed. On to Reims for another glass in our hotel, before having a nice dinner in town, unusually quiet on Saturday. Walked to see the lights come on to the wonderful Cathedral before bed on a very enjoyable day.
Sunday was much less pleasant with the focus on getting our car back to the airport in one piece and getting organised in our hotel room close by. Very large and busy airport, but our hotel is in the hotel strip near Roissy, where we had our last dinner in France ...... pizza!

Shopping day

My promise to Gail was that she could indulge her shopping needs at the end of the trip by visiting the outlet shops at Troyes, on the way back to Paris, so that we wouldn’t be moving ever heavier bags on and off trains. While this has not been completely adhered to, the little treasures so far purchased have been restricted to her small suitcase, with a small overflow into mine.
Keeping the promise, we got moving early and drove 4 hours to the outlet area and booked into a Logis hotel nearby. After 3 hours Gail returned spent in all meanings of the word.
Surprised that our cheap hotel in an industrial area is very comfortable and the grill restaurant next door served one of our most enjoyable meals in a pleasant outdoor area. Gail to bed happy.

Taking it easy

Day 2 in Alsace was a relaxed start with a plan to stroll around the sites of Colmar and then drive out to see a couple of nearby villages. As we walked near the car park we changed the order and headed to do a little tasting in Ribeauvillé to find the caves closed. We then had a little look at Hunawir and a revisit to Riquewir, where we based six years ago. Unfortunately the rain came tumbling down while Gail visited the Christmas Shop, so we beat a retreat to Colmar. Had a nice evening meal in a small restaurant out of the tourist area.
Day 3 was a slow start but we managed a longer walk around Colmar and the wine tasting in Ribeauvillé missed yesterday. A nice little look at the village of Kientzheim led to nowhere to have a stop, so we headed back to Colmar and a drink opposite home. Dinner of fresh pasta at home and a movie completed a relaxed day.
Day 4 was an earlier start to get us to the castle Haut-Koenigsbourg, which sits high atop the Vosges Mountains. The winding drive up past many crazy cyclists led to a parking area and a long walk up to the castle. It was well worth the visit and highly enjoyable apart from the groups of school children - we are both over that!
Had lunch in Kintzheim down in the valley served by a sad-sack waiter, and then on to Turckheim to be guided into a parking space by a local crazy woman. Dinner tonight sees us tackle the local cuisine in a recommended Winstub.

Settled in Alsace

Got away from Beaune not long after the Langfords for the drive north-east to Alsace and our four night stay in a Colmar. The earlier start got us to the beautiful village of Eguisheim in time for lunch.
The walk into the village quickly revealed the fairytale nature of the place - it was used for Beauty and the Beast after all!
We had lunch of the local specialty of Tarte Flambé in the main square where several stork nests sat high on the church roof and spire currently occupied by families of storks. The walk around the circular streets inside the ramparts was fascinating. The colourful half timbered houses were covered in flowers and were well loved. Easy to see why it is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Had a nice wine tasting at Wolfberger where the tasting list was the largest I have ever seen. Just tried a few and picked up a couple of bottles for our stay.
Rain had begun to fall as we met our host Marie at our apartment. It is located right on top of the canal of this main picture spot in Colmar. It is also the most beautifully appointed apartment of the trip. We decided to take advantage with dinner at home while watching tourists on the bridge and a Chinese cooking show being filmed just over the bridge. Loving Alsace.

Beauned

After a wonderful day that was one of the highlights of the trip, Saturday night proved a source of stress as a group of men decided the square outside our room was a good place for an all night party. Shouting and whistling continued until the sun rose.
I was not in a fit state to do the planned drive to Dijon, so the Langfords went on their own. They reported on a beautiful old town and Ducal Palace. Gail and I went for a slow walk and lunch before getting an hours rest before Sandy and Alex returned. Alan, of course, returned to nearby vineyards for a nice tasting of Grand Crus.
We met up for a few drinks in our favourite wine bar before dinner in Brasserie Monge. Sad duty of packing to leave Beaune, but I look forward to a more restful place in Colmar.

Beaune revisited

We were in Beaune six years ago with Sandy and Al and I was not sure about returning. It was such a wonderful time then, so I wondered if it could live up to that this time around.
We arrived after an eventful morning of picking up our rental car and negotiating the way out of Lyon. Drove into Beaune to find the Langfords in a restaurant near our square. Went straight to our favourite wine bar and immediately felt at home.
Met our host Andre, who showed us the apartment and gave us advice on Beaune. Immediately concerned by how small our bed was. After I cooked a dinner for us all, Gail and I went for a stroll and an ice cream before retiring to our tiny bed. We both woke up sore from hanging on the edges of our “king single” bed.
Saturday was where I had planned out the day to make sure we had an opportunity to taste wines on a busy day. It began with a look around the fantastic market where all manner of goods and fresh produce was available.
First wine stop was a tour and tasting of sparkling wines at Vieuv Ambal that was great experience. Lunch followed at a lovely restaurant situated in the vineyards near Volnay. We made a quick visit to a winery we had enjoyed six years ago meeting Jean again.
Heading back to Beaune to drop the car, we then walked to Domaine Debray for a tasting of 7 wines, including a Grand Cru. Dropped into our wine bar on the way home for a relaxed dinner at home.

Two full days in Lyon

Wednesday was washing and walking day. The walk took us across the Saone river to the old town of Lyon. Interesting narrow, cobbled streets where every second place was a cafe, bouchon or restaurant.
Took the funicular up the hill to the Roman theatres that still operate today for shows. Having the light towers, stages etc took away the Roman feel of the place, but probably saves on cost of new stadiums. (Take note NSW).
Walked further to the top to look at the impressive Notre Dame and enjoy great views over the city. Recovered over an excellent Prix fix lunch in a side street, before walking back across the river and down to Place Bellecour and back up the main drag to home. Quiet drink nearby and easy dinner at home, before a night walk along the party boats of the Rhône, had us ready for a good nights rest.
Thursday was our last chance for a museum and we targeted Musee de Confluence, where the the two rivers meet. Metro and trams were eventually negotiated to reach this futuristic building.
Enjoyed a few hours at both temporary and permanent exhibitions that were impressive in their curation. Knew little of cartoonist Hugo Pratt or the Taureg people before, but do now!
Went back for a break and a pack before dinner across the Rhône.

Arriving in Lyon

Recovered with a good night sleep and caught the 12.30 train from Marseille to Lyon. The traffic around the station and through town to our apartment created an expensive and hair raising taxi ride.
Our studio apartment appears to be quiet and comfortable. Bought a few groceries and had a little walk through the neighbourhood prior to dinner in a local restaurant where we were greeted by the celebrity chef owner before a thunderstorm hit. Interesting meal probably below his best, as he was distracted by problems with his mother. Nice, quirky restaurant.
A little stroll around a nearby plaza before more rain and bedtime.

Sleepless in Marseille

In a trip of some stress and disappointment, Marseille has become another mistake. Not that it is without its charms, as we enjoyed a walk along the Old Port with thousands of others on Sunday afternoon. We also climbed up the old fort and MUCEM complex to enjoy views out to sea and across all parts of the city. The meal last night in an Asian influences restaurant above the port was also enjoyable.
The big mistake was booking a hotel in the port area, as the street noise, even on a Sunday night and into the wee hours of Monday morning was unbelievable. The streets around this area are generally smelly and unattractive as well. Unfortunately we have two nights to endure.
The result was another bad nights sleep and Gail returning to bed for a few hours. I walked around the area away from the port to find African and Arab quarters without much appeal apart from cheap shopping. Plans to take a boat outside the harbour were doomed as the wind picked up and dark clouds moved in. Things picked up late in the afternoon as we walked into the old town and sat a while over a chilled rose, watching the world go by. Another nice meal followed in a Brazilian inspired restaurant Aux Antipodes where we had long discussions with the owner/chef. Monday night  there were fewer drunks in our lane way so we caught up on a little sleep.

Back in France

We said farewell to Robert and the Langfords this morning and went to Sants station to catch our train to Montpellier. The French rail strikes took their toll as we crossed into France when people from cancellations had to find standing room on the train. Thankfully we had booked seats in first class, but had to listen to Americans from Florida extolling the virtues of Disney World versus Paris Disney. They also planned a few hours in Paris to take in the sites.
We had late afternoon and evening to enjoy the mini-Paris that is Montpellier.... a town that deserves more than a few hours. We had one of our best meals of the trip in a small restaurant in a back street that involved surprising food combinations and great attention to detail. Great to be back in France where the two of us enjoy the food and wine so much.

Pavlova and white choc

Highs and lows of Gaudi

Our day was to focus on two Gaudi creations in Sagrada Familia and Park Guell. Attempts to get tickets were frustrated last night and again this morning when tickets were booked and then found to be invalid. All we could do was to see the outside of Sagrada without going into the Cathedral. Still an incredible sight to see the old part completed by Gaudi and the new sections trying to realise his unique vision.
We then opted to walk to the former bullfighting ring (now a market or performance arena) and the Arc del Triomf before meeting the Langfords for another nice Pinxos lunch down the road from our apartment. Gail had a little shopping afternoon, buying a bag and some clothes while I wandered through our neighbourhood.
We had a farewell dinner with Robert at a local tapas restaurant that I had researched before leaving Oz. While it was a little more expensive than most meals in Spain, we were very impressed by the quality of the food and the passion of the staff. One of our better meals.