Monday, 30 April 2018

Wonderful weather

I generally pride myself on travel planning, but I have not been good with the weather so far. Late spring in the south is supposed to be pleasant, but today has been cold, wet and miserable. The week before we arrived in France was pretty warm, and will be again next week when we leave. Today in Rocamadour hit a max of 9, with driving rain at times. We attempted a climb up the steps as the pilgrims did, but found it beyond reason. Those with a little more religion tend to not care about reason, and so there were bedraggled, faithful types going much further than us.
The drive here was more difficult than expected as the satnav did its usual deed and sent us on a slower more dangerous route. Narrow roads, lots of trucks and a radar trap added to the rain for a less than enjoyable journey. Stopped in the lovely town of Martel along the way, and it looked to be a place to revisit. Rocamadour is quite spectacular in its setting, but crowded with tourists and shops. Like Mont St Michel, it is best seen after dark when the crowds depart. Our hotel Beau Site is right in the centre with a view up to chateau from our bedroom window. The meal in the hotel restaurant was first class tonight and the only dampener (no pun) was the continuous rain that stopped a walk through the town under lights - something I really was looking forward to.



Sunday, 29 April 2018

Slow day in Tours

The planning of this trip involved allowing for days when we could take it easy and also to do a bit of washing and self-catering. Today was such a day, with pretty miserable weather.
Late start saw washing complete, chef prepare a nice scrambled egg breakie, and a little  shopping trip up the road. With rain holding off, the afternoon was taken up by a visit to two wineries in Vouvray, just across the river. A very pleasant time had and some very good sparkling Vouvray purchased for that special occasion.......like being in France for example.
We then took the opportunity to drop by St Gratien Cathedral in Tours on the way home. Wow, what an impressive sight! This incredible Gothic masterpiece took almost 400 years to complete and has the highest of vaults surrounded by magnificent stained glass. Unfortunately some was lost in WW2 bombing.
Rain fell as we returned for a simple dinner of bread, cheese, terrines and smoked trout etc......with some Vouvray wine. Replete.



Saturday, 28 April 2018

Fun of driving

This morning was time to pick up our vehicle for the next week of touring. Stage 1 was a long walk to the main rail station through some of the less salubrious parts of town. We found the car company had kindly upgraded us to a car bigger than we wanted. Narrow roads and tight parking spaces not meant for SUV’s!
First destination was one of the Château we missed on our last visit to the Loire with Margie and Michael. Château Villandry was found in a lovely small village and has spectacular gardens that are the main focus of the visit. Followed up with a very nice lunch at Cheval Rouge in the village.
Encouraged by the better than expected weather, we decided to fit in tomorrow’s planned focus of Amboise before the rain that is supposed to set in. After a long drive and another annoying satnav misadventure we found a car spot below the castle and walked through a very picturesque town.
Not enough time or energy for the two Château, we opted on a visit to Clos Luce where Leonardo da Vinci spent his last years. Fascinating displays of his rooms and inventions were in the house and throughout the gardens. He was an ideas man!
Tonight, after a short rest we made a short walk to a small local restaurant Le Bistrio that looked good. We got the last unbooked  table in the place and had a wonderful meal of fish and a nice local wine for a very low price. Day well spent.



Friday, 27 April 2018

Tour to Tours

Moving day can be a bit stressful as you negotiate getting from one place to another, but today was about as easy as it gets. We didn’t need to check out until 12 allowing a late breakfast and a leisurely morning. I began my Uber experience in Paris by booking a ride to Montparnasse for our train to Tours. The SNCF train went like a bullet to get us there in an hour and straight into a taxi to our apartment for the next 3 days.
Nice ultra new place in quiet part of town opposite a park. In the afternoon we walked into the old town and down to the mighty Loire. Stopped in the lovely square surrounded by half timbered buildings that are now bars and cafes. One drink led to another before the cold winds forced a retreat down the beautiful main drag to our sanctuary. Nice night in.


Tours old square and main drag

Thursday, 26 April 2018

Last day in Paris

After the chilly winds have arrived, I woke up with a sore throat and the start of a cold. As it is our last full day in a Paris we set out on a chilly morning without a coherent plan. Gail was keen to see the Shakespeare and Co book store, so we could at least be indoors. Fascinating place it proved to be with an incredible history and impressive collection of serious books in English.
Wandering past the Concergerie we saw an inviting small line, so spent another interesting hour or so in this former palace and prison. A good morning spent, we had a simple lunch like the Parisians do - people watching in a corner cafe.
I succumbed to the cold for a little rest before some pre dinner drinks in the hotel. We then took the long march to Les Halles for dinner in L’Apibo restaurant where we enjoyed dinner 3 years ago. It proved to be excellent once again and so much better than our brassiere meal last night.



Wednesday, 25 April 2018

Visiting an old friend

The day began with Gail up early? My awakening was a little slower after taking a tablet to finally get a nights sleep.
An early breakfast had us walking toward our favourite art museum before the crowd built up. Musée d’Orsay contains major works by some of our favourite artists and appears to have different series of paintings each time we visit. This time quite a few were to be found in Adelaide!
It had become very busy by the time our aching legs and backs beckoned us back home in the afternoon for a little break. Got moving again for a stroll through the Jardin de Luxembourg, where large numbers enjoyed a bit of sun and activities including kids sailing boats in the large pond.
Returned to the hotel for a reprise of drinks in the lounge before dinner in an amazing local brasserie and another little evening stroll.
Full day!


Tuesday, 24 April 2018

Taking advantage

Day 2 in Paris was also general strike day meaning that the streets were unusually quiet in the morning. After a full breakfast in the hotel we strode out purposefully in the general direction of adventure.
Another beautiful day meant that we were just happy to discover little streets and alleys between us and the river. It eventually took us to old haunts around Notre Dame and the islands. Our need for art and culture was met by a fascinating look at Musée Picasso. Our need for food and wine was met by a light lunch at one of 10000 cute cafes in Paris and a sit in the bar of our hotel over a great Loire sav blanc.
Late afternoon  relax led us to an Italian restaurant nearby. Seems sacrilege to not eat French, but it was the sort of food that I was needing. All in all, tasty and affordable- as we have found all over Europe. Time for a post dinner walk down to the Seine to watch numerous dinner cruises churn by as the sky painted brilliant shades of red.


Monday, 23 April 2018

The longest night complete

The dreaded long haul to Paris via Bangkok has ended with us arriving at Hotel de Buci a little worse for wear. Thankfully the lovely Antoinee at reception told us our room was ready for us at 9.30 in the morning......a quick nap in order to meet the challenges of walking the local area of St Germain.
The area around our little, but perfectly formed, hotel is jumping with cafes, shops and markets. We chose a popular cafe for a light lunch that proved that the French don’t always get it right.
No matter, as it provided fuel for our strategy of trying to get into the time zone by staying awake until late evening.
First we walked to the Seine and along past the Louvre to one of the art museums we have missed in previous visits. L’Orangerie houses Monet’s water lilies murals, as well as a large collection of “lesser” works by contemporary artists of his. It was here that our time zone strategy proved to be a little problematic. We struggled back to our hotel for another short rest.
The evening meal was targeted at a restaurant I had researched called Le Christine, a short walk away. Lovely meal, with an outstanding waiter, got us in the Paris spirit. Followed up with an evening stroll around the area losing count of the number of eateries and bars jumping on a Monday night.