Run to Paris

The last two days of our journey took us first to Champagne country before driving to CDG airport for our flight home.
Saturday was marked by the France v Australia World Cup match and so by 11.00 things appeared pretty quiet as we drove through some lovely villages in Champagne. Sadly most tasting areas were closed as well, so we drove into the capital of things Champagne- Epernay.
Driving down the beautiful avenue lined with famous Champagne houses it became evident that they were closing too. Thankfully, after finding a parking spot, we found a smaller house open to purchase a nice glass of bubbles.
I had an idea that a restaurant I had picked out six years ago was close by, and we were able to get a nice table. First class lunch at Grillade Gourmonde followed. On to Reims for another glass in our hotel, before having a nice dinner in town, unusually quiet on Saturday. Walked to see the lights come on to the wonderful Cathedral before bed on a very enjoyable day.
Sunday was much less pleasant with the focus on getting our car back to the airport in one piece and getting organised in our hotel room close by. Very large and busy airport, but our hotel is in the hotel strip near Roissy, where we had our last dinner in France ...... pizza!

Shopping day

My promise to Gail was that she could indulge her shopping needs at the end of the trip by visiting the outlet shops at Troyes, on the way back to Paris, so that we wouldn’t be moving ever heavier bags on and off trains. While this has not been completely adhered to, the little treasures so far purchased have been restricted to her small suitcase, with a small overflow into mine.
Keeping the promise, we got moving early and drove 4 hours to the outlet area and booked into a Logis hotel nearby. After 3 hours Gail returned spent in all meanings of the word.
Surprised that our cheap hotel in an industrial area is very comfortable and the grill restaurant next door served one of our most enjoyable meals in a pleasant outdoor area. Gail to bed happy.

Taking it easy

Day 2 in Alsace was a relaxed start with a plan to stroll around the sites of Colmar and then drive out to see a couple of nearby villages. As we walked near the car park we changed the order and headed to do a little tasting in Ribeauvillé to find the caves closed. We then had a little look at Hunawir and a revisit to Riquewir, where we based six years ago. Unfortunately the rain came tumbling down while Gail visited the Christmas Shop, so we beat a retreat to Colmar. Had a nice evening meal in a small restaurant out of the tourist area.
Day 3 was a slow start but we managed a longer walk around Colmar and the wine tasting in Ribeauvillé missed yesterday. A nice little look at the village of Kientzheim led to nowhere to have a stop, so we headed back to Colmar and a drink opposite home. Dinner of fresh pasta at home and a movie completed a relaxed day.
Day 4 was an earlier start to get us to the castle Haut-Koenigsbourg, which sits high atop the Vosges Mountains. The winding drive up past many crazy cyclists led to a parking area and a long walk up to the castle. It was well worth the visit and highly enjoyable apart from the groups of school children - we are both over that!
Had lunch in Kintzheim down in the valley served by a sad-sack waiter, and then on to Turckheim to be guided into a parking space by a local crazy woman. Dinner tonight sees us tackle the local cuisine in a recommended Winstub.

Settled in Alsace

Got away from Beaune not long after the Langfords for the drive north-east to Alsace and our four night stay in a Colmar. The earlier start got us to the beautiful village of Eguisheim in time for lunch.
The walk into the village quickly revealed the fairytale nature of the place - it was used for Beauty and the Beast after all!
We had lunch of the local specialty of Tarte Flambé in the main square where several stork nests sat high on the church roof and spire currently occupied by families of storks. The walk around the circular streets inside the ramparts was fascinating. The colourful half timbered houses were covered in flowers and were well loved. Easy to see why it is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Had a nice wine tasting at Wolfberger where the tasting list was the largest I have ever seen. Just tried a few and picked up a couple of bottles for our stay.
Rain had begun to fall as we met our host Marie at our apartment. It is located right on top of the canal of this main picture spot in Colmar. It is also the most beautifully appointed apartment of the trip. We decided to take advantage with dinner at home while watching tourists on the bridge and a Chinese cooking show being filmed just over the bridge. Loving Alsace.

Beauned

After a wonderful day that was one of the highlights of the trip, Saturday night proved a source of stress as a group of men decided the square outside our room was a good place for an all night party. Shouting and whistling continued until the sun rose.
I was not in a fit state to do the planned drive to Dijon, so the Langfords went on their own. They reported on a beautiful old town and Ducal Palace. Gail and I went for a slow walk and lunch before getting an hours rest before Sandy and Alex returned. Alan, of course, returned to nearby vineyards for a nice tasting of Grand Crus.
We met up for a few drinks in our favourite wine bar before dinner in Brasserie Monge. Sad duty of packing to leave Beaune, but I look forward to a more restful place in Colmar.

Beaune revisited

We were in Beaune six years ago with Sandy and Al and I was not sure about returning. It was such a wonderful time then, so I wondered if it could live up to that this time around.
We arrived after an eventful morning of picking up our rental car and negotiating the way out of Lyon. Drove into Beaune to find the Langfords in a restaurant near our square. Went straight to our favourite wine bar and immediately felt at home.
Met our host Andre, who showed us the apartment and gave us advice on Beaune. Immediately concerned by how small our bed was. After I cooked a dinner for us all, Gail and I went for a stroll and an ice cream before retiring to our tiny bed. We both woke up sore from hanging on the edges of our “king single” bed.
Saturday was where I had planned out the day to make sure we had an opportunity to taste wines on a busy day. It began with a look around the fantastic market where all manner of goods and fresh produce was available.
First wine stop was a tour and tasting of sparkling wines at Vieuv Ambal that was great experience. Lunch followed at a lovely restaurant situated in the vineyards near Volnay. We made a quick visit to a winery we had enjoyed six years ago meeting Jean again.
Heading back to Beaune to drop the car, we then walked to Domaine Debray for a tasting of 7 wines, including a Grand Cru. Dropped into our wine bar on the way home for a relaxed dinner at home.

Two full days in Lyon

Wednesday was washing and walking day. The walk took us across the Saone river to the old town of Lyon. Interesting narrow, cobbled streets where every second place was a cafe, bouchon or restaurant.
Took the funicular up the hill to the Roman theatres that still operate today for shows. Having the light towers, stages etc took away the Roman feel of the place, but probably saves on cost of new stadiums. (Take note NSW).
Walked further to the top to look at the impressive Notre Dame and enjoy great views over the city. Recovered over an excellent Prix fix lunch in a side street, before walking back across the river and down to Place Bellecour and back up the main drag to home. Quiet drink nearby and easy dinner at home, before a night walk along the party boats of the Rhône, had us ready for a good nights rest.
Thursday was our last chance for a museum and we targeted Musee de Confluence, where the the two rivers meet. Metro and trams were eventually negotiated to reach this futuristic building.
Enjoyed a few hours at both temporary and permanent exhibitions that were impressive in their curation. Knew little of cartoonist Hugo Pratt or the Taureg people before, but do now!
Went back for a break and a pack before dinner across the Rhône.

Arriving in Lyon

Recovered with a good night sleep and caught the 12.30 train from Marseille to Lyon. The traffic around the station and through town to our apartment created an expensive and hair raising taxi ride.
Our studio apartment appears to be quiet and comfortable. Bought a few groceries and had a little walk through the neighbourhood prior to dinner in a local restaurant where we were greeted by the celebrity chef owner before a thunderstorm hit. Interesting meal probably below his best, as he was distracted by problems with his mother. Nice, quirky restaurant.
A little stroll around a nearby plaza before more rain and bedtime.

Sleepless in Marseille

In a trip of some stress and disappointment, Marseille has become another mistake. Not that it is without its charms, as we enjoyed a walk along the Old Port with thousands of others on Sunday afternoon. We also climbed up the old fort and MUCEM complex to enjoy views out to sea and across all parts of the city. The meal last night in an Asian influences restaurant above the port was also enjoyable.
The big mistake was booking a hotel in the port area, as the street noise, even on a Sunday night and into the wee hours of Monday morning was unbelievable. The streets around this area are generally smelly and unattractive as well. Unfortunately we have two nights to endure.
The result was another bad nights sleep and Gail returning to bed for a few hours. I walked around the area away from the port to find African and Arab quarters without much appeal apart from cheap shopping. Plans to take a boat outside the harbour were doomed as the wind picked up and dark clouds moved in. Things picked up late in the afternoon as we walked into the old town and sat a while over a chilled rose, watching the world go by. Another nice meal followed in a Brazilian inspired restaurant Aux Antipodes where we had long discussions with the owner/chef. Monday night  there were fewer drunks in our lane way so we caught up on a little sleep.

Back in France

We said farewell to Robert and the Langfords this morning and went to Sants station to catch our train to Montpellier. The French rail strikes took their toll as we crossed into France when people from cancellations had to find standing room on the train. Thankfully we had booked seats in first class, but had to listen to Americans from Florida extolling the virtues of Disney World versus Paris Disney. They also planned a few hours in Paris to take in the sites.
We had late afternoon and evening to enjoy the mini-Paris that is Montpellier.... a town that deserves more than a few hours. We had one of our best meals of the trip in a small restaurant in a back street that involved surprising food combinations and great attention to detail. Great to be back in France where the two of us enjoy the food and wine so much.

Pavlova and white choc

Highs and lows of Gaudi

Our day was to focus on two Gaudi creations in Sagrada Familia and Park Guell. Attempts to get tickets were frustrated last night and again this morning when tickets were booked and then found to be invalid. All we could do was to see the outside of Sagrada without going into the Cathedral. Still an incredible sight to see the old part completed by Gaudi and the new sections trying to realise his unique vision.
We then opted to walk to the former bullfighting ring (now a market or performance arena) and the Arc del Triomf before meeting the Langfords for another nice Pinxos lunch down the road from our apartment. Gail had a little shopping afternoon, buying a bag and some clothes while I wandered through our neighbourhood.
We had a farewell dinner with Robert at a local tapas restaurant that I had researched before leaving Oz. While it was a little more expensive than most meals in Spain, we were very impressed by the quality of the food and the passion of the staff. One of our better meals.

Walking Barcelona

The first thing that strikes you from our apartment when walking is the broadness of the avenues and the planned design of the blocks and buildings. Many trees line the avenues and no more so than on the famous La Ramblas.
We walked down the very broad Avenue Diagonal to Passeig de Gracia, where we took time to admire the Gaudi Apartments. Continuing down toward the harbour we walked into the Gothic quarter and the Cathedral. Here we had a great lunch in a Pinxos bar with a wonderful array of treats.
Continued down La Rambla to the harbour where the three of us took a boat ride through the working harbour talking to an Australian lady working as an English teacher.
Used the Metro to return most of the way back. Sandy, Gail and I organised dinner in the apartment that again bettered most of the restaurant meals we’ve had in Spain.

Hiccup on the way to Barcelona

Travelling always presents a few challenges, but this trip has had more than it’s fair share. An email that our train from Montpellier to Marseille had been cancelled due to French strikes caused a bit of a panic. All bookings flow from one to another, so a broken link is not good. After not much sleep the crisis appears averted, with some deft work and extra expense. We took the train from Valencia to Barcelona for our next stay.
After checking into our modern apartment we had to do a little catch-up washing and some shopping for breakfast supplies. Only time for a look around our immediate neighbourhood and dinner at a disappointing Italian restaurant.

Valencia

After our late night arrival, we were a little slow this morning. The Langford party set off earlier, while Robert and us enjoyed a hearty breakfast.
We then caught a taxi to the Arts and Science precinct wher a group of stunning buildings sat in the park that runs through the centre of the city. A lot was going on with a huge event for disabled people and lots of school groups visiting the Science building and Oceanography.
We spent quite some time in the Science exhibits before walking to the oceanography area to discover a very high ticket price. Being already tired of walking and in need of a late lunch we instead grabbed a taxi back to our hotel to have a nice paella in the square out front.
While others rested I went for a walk to see the Cathedral and many other sites of interest nearby. After a pre dinner drink at the hotel bar we three took a taxi to the beach club for an excellent dinner overlooking the main beach. Unfortunately the Langfords had been earlier without us, so we parted company until Barcelona.

Cordoba to Valencia

The Langfords were up and away early for the long drive to Valencia. Robert had a very leisurely morning, while Gail came with me to navigate the return of our hire car. It proved stressful as the hotel car park exited in an unknown street, but we were soon back on track. We made the station without further incident, but finding the Avis drop-off area was complicated by very poor signage.
Eventually sorted after much stress, we took a taxi back to the hotel.
We met a relaxed Robert for a couple of trips around a Cordoba on tourist buses and a late lunch in an excellent Asian inspired restaurant. With so many attractions closed on Monday we killed a little more time in the hotel bar before our evening train.
The train trip was excellent with the train regularly hitting 300 kph, while we had a few drinks from the restaurant carriage next door. Nice views of the countryside flew by and certainly a great way to travel.

Cordoba

Today began with a drive from Granada to Cordoba through rolling hills of mostly olive trees. The scenery was very enjoyable as we past by several white villages and towns largely built atop hills.
Arriving in Cordoba, we were grateful for the parking station below our hotel Alfaros close to the old centre of town.
First priority was a quick walk to the Alcázar to meet the last entry time, as it is closed tomorrow (missed it by 3 minutes!). A short walk away was the famous Mesquite mosque/church that was now closed for Sunday lunch.......so we had our own late lunch.
Entered late in the afternoon to be impressed by the size of this incredible mixture of Islamic and Christian architecture. Gail and I were particularly impressed with the beauty of the Islamic designed forest of columns, opposed to the baroque catholic additions.
A wander back through the old Jewish quarter to meet up again with the Langfords for drinks in the bar and dinner in house.

Alhambra

We all were up early to catch taxis up the hill for our visit to the number 1 site in Spain. After collecting our tickets and audio guides we entered quickly through the “skip the line” and seemed to have avoided the rush of tour groups.
First area visited was the Generalife gardens and Moorish pavilions of the last Muslim bastion in Spain. The flowering plants and lots of running water and fountains made this a very beautiful and relaxing walk.
Next we headed into section created by Carlos V with a church and incomplete palace with a circular courtyard. His attempt to Christianise the place didn’t go down well with the local Muslims who were paying the taxes to build it.
The last part was the old fortress that was never conquered. Very imposing and affording great views over the rest of the complex and the city of Granada below.
We had a nice evening stroll, a few drinks and a great value meal before watching Real Madrid beat Liverpool to win some big tournament. Lovely place to walk in at night.

Granada

A drive with just a few navigation issues led us to check in Hotel Anacapri at lunch time. The wonderful Cathy at reception solved our parking issues and gave us a great recommendation for lunch on the corner.
After lunch we strolled up the riverside just below the Alhambra Palace walls to walk off a little of lunch. I managed to convince Gail to take a trek up the hill in the Albycin area to get a good view over toward the palace while the others walked back for a rest. Some steep cobbled lanes and steps led us to the best photo spot.
My childbride and I were also alone for a very nice walk near the Cathedral to see large numbers enjoying Friday night. Back alleys were filled with merchandise that gave the appearance of Marrakech. A couple of wines, a tapas and enjoyable people watching rounded out the afternoon in Granada. Classy city.

Last day in Seville

For our last day in Seville we opted not to drive again, but to see a couple of the highlights that we have been unable to see. A slow morning was followed by lunch at a restaurant situated overlooking the river.
The boys dropped into the “Cathedral of Bullfighting” Plaza de Toros for a behind the scenes tour and a look at the impressive ring and stadium. No bull, but very interesting.
After struggling back, Gail, Sandy, Robert and I walked to the Real Alcázar for the final session available to us. Well worth the effort to see this remarkable combination of Muslim and Christian architecture. The gardens were equally stunning before the rain started.
Dinner mopping up food and wine we had left before drive to Granada tomorrow.

Drive to Cadiz

The plan for our days here in Seville included taking a couple of drives to see some other places. Today we decided on a trip to Cádiz followed by a drop into Jerez to taste a little sherry at one of the many bodegas there.
First part of the plan worked well as we found parking near the harbour and walked into the town centre. A pretty reasonable lunch was followed by a walk along the sea front past old forts that once guarded the Spanish fleet. We attempted a visit to the Roman theatre and Cathedral, but found them closed.
Driving onto Jerez late in the afternoon my maps.me navigator went to sleep, so we found ourselves lost and unable to rendezvous with the Langford vehicle. We beat a retreat back to Seville. The Langfords also declined to wait for their bodegas tour and tasting, so Jerez proved a disappointment.
I opted to use our supplies to cook dinner again at home, using our pathetic kitchen equipment.
Gail and I finished the day with an evening stroll with the locals. At 10 pm the restaurants were at their busiest.

Feeling holy

A beautiful day had us out walking to the nearby Iglesias San Salvador to get tickets to it and the Cathedral. While the Iglesias was interesting with its Roccoco alter pieces, we were most excited by skipping the long line to walk straight into the Cathedral.
What a wonderful site this huge church was, with epic proportions and the tomb/edifice of Christopher Columbus taking an important corner. The size of the four organs led me to wish for a rendition of “ Funeral for a Friend” or similar.
Somehow I found the energy to climb the endless ramps to get to the top of the Giralda Tower before meeting the others. Proved my recovery.
Lunch was a bit of a disaster in a tourist trap near the Cathedral before I had to grab a taxi to collect our hire car at the main station. Al and maps.me were my guides back to the Plaza.
Dinner was at home as I took over Sandy’s intended meal with Gail’s help. Best meal of the day.
Nice evening at home.

Civilised Sevilla

Our first days in Seville revealed a beautiful city as we wandered from our Plaza Nueva apartment up the main drag to visit the Cathedral and Alcázar. Unfortunately the lines were too long for the patience of our group, so we moved on to visit the old tobacco factory of “Carmen” fame and the very impressive Plaza de España. The usual cliches of flamenco dancers, guitar players, beggars and sellers occupied sections of the Plaza.
After a paella lunch Gail and I went on a longer than expected walk across the river to see the old Triana side. It looked a good spot for an evening drink and meal.
The rest of the group went for an evening drink at the rooftop bar on the hotel next door as my lungs recovered from earlier long walks. Dinner was in one of the numerous restaurants down a nearby lane. My decision to go for an post dinner walk found me no companions, but led me to the stunning Las Setas architectural wonder, described as the “Seville Parasol” - more like mushrooms to me.

Adios Madrid

Finally on a course of antibiotics and things for my lung infection I have been able join the others to see a little more of Madrid. Saturday morning saw us join the line to get into the Real Palace that was at least a reasonable size.
The walk through revealed many of the sumptuous rooms that we saw over forty years ago. It is to our minds one of the best in the world because of the original furniture and fabulous decoration. The curious thing was that they were forceful in stopping photos, butShortness of breath and Gail having a migraine led us to a quiet afternoon after lunch watching the royal wedding......well, I watched a bit!
Sunday is moving day to Seville. Langfords were first to leave for the airport to pick up their car and Sandy, while we got on a train that ran very late due to “technical problems”. Many hoped it would be at least 30 minutes late to receive a refund!
Our new home in Seville is a 4 bedroom, 4 bathroom apartment right on Plaza Nueva and a short walk to most attractions and with plenty of restaurants and bars. First night, however, I felt well enough to cook dinner for our full complement of 7, now that Sandy has joined us.

Turning a corner

Hope for improved health appeared a dream, after a slow morning and a decision to try getting into the Royal Palace. The short walk with the Langfords was difficult for me and we faced a long line to get in. Instead, we had look at the Cathedral and Crypt to see if the line changed. Indeed it did, by moving to a different position, but not decreasing in size.
A walk through the gardens and Plaza de España put me in need of a break, so we had drink in a cafe, before preceding past a Medical centre. Gail took me in to try our luck and this time we got an appointment. A nice female doctor gave me a prescription for a small truckload of medicines and antibiotics to deal with a bad lung infection.
After taking the mixture while Jordan helped Gail with her hair, we stood on the balcony of their apartment to watch the victory procession of the Madrid Atlético football team. Matched the Porto experience, but this time even closer to the action.