Porec - Opatija

After a pleasant dinner and stroll around the old town, we had a sit at the hotel bar for a nightcap. Belatedly picked up the car and negotiated the tricky route back to pick up Gail and baggage.

A little hiccup on the journey to had us miss the highway toward turn-off and have to re circuit. Only half hour lost.

Further drama followed trying to find our hotel in Opatija. It's in the centre and right on the water, but has very small sign above the entry only. Finally pulled on to the footpath so Gail could run into tourist office to find the car was one building away!

Lovely old world hotel from the Hapsburg era with big balcony and commanding view over the town and the Adriatic. Could have filmed episode of Hercules Poirot here.

Walked along beautiful sea front with more hotels of similar age and had dinner in a fantastic restaurant with fresh fish and excellent local wine. Finished on our balcony watching the last light and the night lights twinkle around the bay. Cares of the early part of the day faded away.

Views from our balcony

Plans change

Some days don't go to plan. Today it was Gail's turn to be sick, as an earache became worst and she felt giddy as we walked through the old town after I had spent part of the morning organising our car for a little drive into Istria.

While she laid down, I found a doctor and made an appointment. A long consultation followed; an ear infection diagnosed and rest recommended. Days car hire wasted, but more importantly she has antibiotics and will rest and be good to go on board the boat later on the trip.

The change allowed more of a look at the town and a climb to the top of the World Heritage early Christian Basillica for great views over the area. At least I got plenty of exercise walking back and forth during the day.

Bye to Venice

Sunday was moving day as we checked out of our lovely apartment for our fast boat to Porec in Croatia. As the boat didn't leave until after 5.00 pm it was good that they provided storage facilities nearby. The foreboding sky made walking about a gamble, so the plan was a thank-you lunch for Kez and Frank from us and the Graham's.

I finally got a chance to book a restaurant that I had earmarked called San Trovaso nearby our apartment. Tom and Kirsty also came along to make up our usual eight.

We had the best meal so far in Venice as our last one of the trip. Excellent food in big proportions at a very fair prices and great staff. More food in Venice should be like this!

Said our farewells and were joined by Tez and Glen on the trip across the Adriatic. Turned into an eventful trip as storms hit, with driving rain and lightning. At one stage we were becalmed as the motors shuddered to a halt, apparently because of debris being sucked into the motor. Thankfully the crew fixed it quickly and we made Porec on time.

Graham's continued on to Rovinj after we disembarked and made a dash to our hotel right opposite the wharf. Quick change before enjoying a very nice dinner in the hotel.

Had a bit of rocking today, so not rocking needed to get us to sleep!

Best Venetian meal at San Trovaso as rain came down outside

View from safety of our hotel room in Porec - the boat at the dock prior to leaving

Tourists

With the main events of the Bienalle preview over, we decided to do a bit of siteseeing on another beautiful day, while awaiting the jurors verdict. A walk over the Accademia Bridge led us through piazzas before reaching San Marco. 

We got there just as the loads of tour groups descended on the place. The lines for the Doges Palace and Campenile were already too long for us, so after a look at the Bridge of Sighs and other photo ops we walked back through ever increasing tour groups.

After Gail had a little shop we stopped next to the Accademia for a drink, that became lunch as we sat next to the Grand Canal while a fabulous trio played Vivaldi and Pachabel. Only tore ourselves away when they packed up for the next location.

News came through that "The Pool" didn't win the prize, which went to Spain, but Amelia and her partners can be proud of the achievement. We joined them for an evening dinner and drinks on their patio overlooking the canal as all sorts interesting sights walked or floated by.

Lido and Guidecca

Friday involved a few trips to the barrier islands on Venice Lagoon. First was a little look at Lido, which has a long beach on the sea side. The walk down the main boulevard was very pleasant, but the beach was pretty disappointing. Why do Aussies bother with European beaches where people need to sit on deck chairs to avoid the dirty sand or pebbles?

On the stroll back we met Terry and Glen for a nice lunch. While they shopped Terry and Ai had a funny conversation with a 92 year old guy from New Jersey. Told us that Americans are not so stupid as to elect Trump. Hope he's right!

Late afternoon was another Vaporetto to the nearby Guidecca, where Janet Holmes A'Court hosted a cocktail party around one of only four swimming pools in Venice. Hobnobbed with various notables in the beautiful Fortuny estate over drinks and nibbles. Evening finished with late dinner near out apartment looking back to the island as huge cruise boats headed past.

Lido beach.....pitiful really

Glen happy with choice

At Commissioner's Cocktail Part

Openings at Biennale

Thursday morning was the opening of the Australian pavilion entry "The Pool", followed by many other countries during the course of the day. Our opening began with an Aboriginal ceremony, the a few speeches and the usual drinks along a canal.

The Oz pavilion is new and quite dramatic in black. Inside the exhibit is very simple and dramatic with a pool, decking and lounge chairs. It's a place to sit and reflect as light dances off the pool and the storytellers, such as Tim Flannery, Paul Kelly and Shane Gould tell of their feelings about pools.

Having a look through other exhibits it does stand apart. Many others are more traditional, with project models and the like; some are very serious in tackling political issues; while some are completely baffling.

After being suitably confused, we sat down at the very busy restaurant on the waterfront where Kez had arranged a table for 20! We finished just in time to take a slow boat along the Grand Canal to the Austral bricks bar for the last two hours of free drinks.

Back to Kez and Franks apartment to watch the sun set over cheese and bickies, before walking back with a slightly wobbly boot. Obligatory stop for gelato on one of the small bridges completed a full day.

Washing Day

Wednesday was chores day, with several loads of washing done and an interesting shop at the local market. Always fun to try to work out what things are and to search the aisles for what would be common items in Oz. Confrontation with Madame Checkout ensured when I hadn't weighed the bananas myself.

Walked about our area, before walking on to a vaporetto and walking straight into Terry and Glen, who had just arrived in Venice. Met up with the whole gang at the Austral Bricks bar for free drinks (3 hours), where a burgeoning group of Aussies and hangers-on stood next to the Grand Canal and Rialto. Our substantial group included Ian Thorpe and his boyfriend. The surprise guest was Tom Holiday who's girlfriend Kirsty had cajoled and mothered into overcoming his fear of flying.

Early dinner and bed was called for tired and well-plied travellers. Lovely Glenys has come to my rescue with cold and flu drugs from Oz. Two weeks now.

Guess where?

At the Austral Bricks bar with "The Pool" scarves

Venezia

Caught the fast train from Bologna to Venice on Tuesday. Almost missed it as we arrived in plenty of time and went to platform indicated and sat where our carriage was supposed to be only for them to change the platform at last minute and carriage order......mad dash got us there just in time!

Arriving in Venice we were confronted by long lines to buy tickets and  to get on vaporetto to our apartment. It's in a good spot and we'll set up in the Dorsoduro area. Met Kez and told to get ready for a night out visiting the Denali Hotel near St Marco for drinks put on by Amelia's dad Stephen. Quite a luxurious place with prices to match! Late dinner followed near St Barnabas and a stroll home.

View from our balcony

View from Kez and Franks....show offs!

Tasting Bologna

After a good night sleep in our best hotel so far, we set out on a long walk to see the sites. Unfortunately rain began to fall and required a quick dash back to obtain an umbrella. Thankfully there are plenty of colonnaded verandas along the streets.

The city is full of history and we visited beautiful piazzas, palaces,  churches and the oldest western university. In between are lots of narrow streets and passages with classy shops and restaurants.

When too tired to go on, I had to have a little lie down while Gail went for a little shop!

Late afternoon we met our guide Gloria, and three young American couples for a " Delicious Bologna" tour. Gloria took us back to some of the sights we had seen, but now explained a little more about them.

Most importantly, she took us to various places to sample the food and wine of the region. A coffee stop was followed by a meats and cheeses providore, where the wine flowed generously. Suitably loosened the group started to interact. A pizza tasting was then followed by main course of various pastas and more wine. We finished with a visit to a gelataria and our lovely "American kids" escorted us back toward our hotel. Lots of hugs and kisses and promises to come visit!

Gloria explains delicious Bologna

Moving Day

Last night we bade farewell to our tour group with a dinner and a few drinks. Main associates during the tour were several Canadians, mainly from Toronto. The nice weather meant we could move out on to the terrace and chat until 11.00 - our first late night, as we could have a late breakfast as the others went to the airport. Caught the trains to Munich Airport and an Air Dolomiti flight to Bologna.

Jumped on the shuttle to town and our home for two nights, Hotel Internationazale.

After a short rest we set out up Via Independenza with throngs of people having a Sunday evening stroll. Lots of performers and buskers kept the crowds entertained. We were just as impressed with the number of Italianate and Renaissance buildings. Walked back toward our hotel and found a nice restaurant. Our choice of Italian continued to provide satisfying food and wine.

Reflecting on the tour, we enjoyed many aspects, but not all. Our guide, local experts and driver were all excellent. We could never have seen all we did without them. I would never attempt it on my own.

Being sick for most of the time was not helpful. The relentless pace didn't give me a chance to recover. Gail was amazingly good at making all the early morning departures and kept to the pace.

The places visited were extraordinary, and now having a taste, we can decide to return for a more relaxed look. The group were a mixed bag, but we found enough really good people to connect with.

Our tour got all the experiences of more expensive ones. Our hotels were out of the centre, but all accessible by trams etc. We would possibly do something similar in future, but perhaps less hectic.

Eagles Nest

This morning we took the option of an early morning tour to Berchtesgaden and Hitlers lair at the Eagles Nest. It proved to be an unforgettable experience, aided by our most perfect weather day so far.

Our guide Veronika was great and we beat the hordes to the top. Hitlers mate, Martin Bormann had the roads and buildings built for Hitlers 50th birthday. A great present, except that he hated heights!

Could understand how this place would have him shaking, but the climb up and the views were incredible. With plenty of ice and snow laying about it was no place for running about.

On return to Salzburg, we headed back to Munich for some late lunch. Crowds were out in force on a warm Saturday, and locals were using the banks of the river and parks to sun bake.

Hills alive!

Departed Vienna for Salzburg, where Gail is hoping for a "Sound of Music" experience. First stop, however is the Benedictine monastery of Melk. This was a hidden treasure for our Director Rob, but we weren't the only bus there. 

Very impressive baroque complex with a fabulous chapel. Rob wasn't kidding when he said these guys were good at making money! So much for vows of poverty.

As we left our lunch pit stop, Rob endeared himself to Gail by conducting a Sound of Music singalong on the bus ( not universally popular) and arranging a special tour of the film sites in Salzburg. Gail's happiness was only increased when she found a Christmas shop. Had to calm her down with a few wines before heading to our hotel and a team dinner.

Entrance to Melk Monastery

Mirabel Gardens familiar to SoM fans

Wonderful Wien

This morning we had a tour of monumental Vienna. Wide boulevards of the Ringstrasse opened views of palaces, gardens, statues, museums and other monumental buildings. Inside the ring we walked through pedestrian shopping districts with countless cafes, where the locals and hordes of tourists take a wide selection of coffee.

Managed to have lunch with Gail's friend Kath and husband Chris, who are on a parallel tour group. It ended badly when Chris and I were chatting while the girls shopped and Chris had his bag stolen......luckily without anything like passports, phones or wallets in it.

We headed back to our hotel for a short rest before going back in with our Canadian friends Wayne and Lorraine for dinner and to see this beautiful city under lights. I think Vienna, like Prague and Budapest deserve a longer look.

Hofburg Palace, the Hapsburgs winter digs

The Rathaus

Waltz into Vienna

 Civilised departure to Vienna via Gyor (Jur) with warning of lines at the border as police checked for refugees. Lunch stop in Gyor revealed a very pretty and prosperous town thanks now to an Audi factory.

Had a nice wander and lunch in the square opposite the baroque church.

On to Vienna without a border delay. Just as well, as we had little time in hotel before heading to our Viennese dinner and concert.

When in Vienna it has to be Strauss and Mozart! The dinner and wine were excellent before we took our front row seats in the Kursalon, where the aforementioned blokes did their thing.

Terrific performance by orchestra, dancers and opera singers. Champagne at interval watching fire dancers practice in the park completed a great evening.

Gyor

Warm-up act before Gail and I showed them how it's done

Lay day

After a late night on the cruise, we were up early to do a tour of the two cities before the crowds built too much. It proved a final nail in my coughing.

The tour took us to old town of Buda and some great views from the Fishermans Bastion. It has many impressive medieval buildings as we went for a wander.

Next was a tour on the Pest side, largely built in the 19th century by the Hapzburgs. Very like Paris with wide tree lined avenues and grand monuments and mansions.

The relentless pace has finally told and I decided to take the afternoon off in order to survive the rest of the trip........not too exciting for Gail who read and watched a movie while I slept.

Seen enough of Prague and Budapest though to want to return for a longer look.

Had an enjoyable evening with our group of Torontans, who share our sense of humour and appreciation of food and wine. A few are now planning a trip to Australia. Have to add Toronto to our Canadian itinerary, when we go.

Gail in Buda

Monumental Pest

The long haul

The drive from Prague to Budapest was a long one. Glad that I wasn't doing the driving !

First stop was Bratislava for lunch and our timing was impeccable - after a walk into the main square there was a sudden downpour. Headed to a chemist to seek something for the cold and found my Slovakian was wanting.....as was the medicine I bought. Even singing the "soldier on with Codral" song didn't help. At least we had a very nice lunch........Italian of course!

Reaching Budapest we had a nice view over the two towns on the Danube. Our hotel is on the Buda side in sight of the castle area. After a little freshen up we took the dinner cruise option.

What a spectacular sight the city under lights presents. No wonder it is called "Paris on the Danube".

The illuminated Parliament is the most wonderful of all. The only drawback was that a few wines and time on deck in the bracing wind gave the cold another freshen up. Note to self to pack the cold and flu tables even if travelling in summer!

Bratislava a minute before the rain

Parliament aglow

Czech chill

Sunday is freezing as we board the bus with Andre making jokes about the weather. It's 8 degrees and with the wind chill added it feels about 0! Being pretty crook, I toyed with staying in bed, but needing to keep Gail company, we head off on the tour to the Castle on the hill.

It's exposed position ramps up the chilling wind and the sun disappears as the light rain falls .....or is it sleet? Just the ticket for improving a cold!

Despite this the castle and cathedral are impressive sights. The walk through the old town later leads us to the main square and Astronomical Clock, before I decide that discretion is the better option.

A nice lunch and warming coffee (+wine) we then negotiate the trams back to the hotel for a little rest and organisation.

Dinner in the hotel is best described as interesting and largely inedible. No matter, as we strike up some nice conversations with several Canadians. They're a nice group and the Commonwealth spirit is good as we enjoy a drink and make jokes about Americans. Early to bed for a big drive tomorrow.

Gail enjoying Spring

Andre's arm frozen in the air

Driving mad

Up early on Saturday for the drive to Prague via Regensburg. Cold wet weather in Munich left me with a sore throat and head cold. Hopes for a sleep on the bus were dashed by our tour leader Rob, who has an over active mouth. He kept up incessant prattle all the way, displaying his knowledge to one and all. Nice guy, but a little too eager!

Stop at Regensburg on the Danube was pleasant and saw plenty of traditional clothes as a couple of weddings were happening. Most towns in Alsace were more attractive, but few town like this escaped the bombing in WW 2.

After arriving in Prague we opted for a sunset/ evening tour. Our local guide, Andre was a scream, with some of the best one-liners I've heard. He took us to a ancient pub for some Pilsener and sing-along with a brilliant accordionist and a stroll across the King Charles bridge while the fireworks display to celebrate the good kings 700th birthday played over the river. Returned in a chartered old tram. Great night!

Our guide and accordionist

Enjoying Prague by night

Moist Munchen

Up early for  nice breakfast before heading into the city centre via the underground. Our Holiday Inn is in the southern part and is quite large. The food last night and this morning was excellent and well priced.

Efficient rail into Marienplatz (as you'd expect in Germany) but unfortunately the early drizzle turned into steady rain. Had a wander around the Rathaus and watched the hourly display and glockenspiel with a damp crowd. A stroll through the market area brought us to Eataly, where an incredible array of Italian food and wine tempted us to stay in for a light lunch.

Back to hotel to meet our tour group - an eclectic mix, with us the only Aussies. Our Pommy leader, Rob took us back in for some sights we had already seen, so we escaped for another meander and dinner in another excellent Italian ...... I know, so much for experiencing Bavarian food; but we've done that before and so we much preferred to be eating with the locals and some really good food! 

Heavy showers had us returning early to the hotel for a glass of Italian Pinot Grigio (what else ?) before retiring before the first of our early starts tomorrow. Beginning to understand why we haven't been on a bus tour for nearly forty years!

Marienplatz in the morning

Eataly for lunch ...... But of course!

Journey begins

Finally arrived in our hotel room in Munich a little worse for wear. 30 hours from leaving our house to walking into our room. Desk clerk thought I looked tired!

The Qatar flights were pretty good apart from a few passengers who made a nuisance of themselves. Having the 3 seats was again helpful on the long leg to Doha, but Qatar economy seats have good legroom anyway. As the second leg flight to Munich was not heavily booked, we both ended up with 3 seats and Gail managed a good few hours sleep.

The taxi bill from the airport came as a shock, forgetting just how far out of town it is. Battled to keep awake for as long as possible to adjust the body clocks to local time. Just managed past dinner time.

Our trip began with the sad news of Sandys mum, Lola passing away. Will take her memory with us, as the last time we went on a bus tour in Europe was with Sandy and Lola nearly 40 years ago. It was when we really got to know and love her.