Final thoughts

Back home now and recovered as we get back into the swing of things. Time to write a few impressions of the trip.

1. The extra economy seat was well worth it. Seems a better deal than Premium Economy with Cathay. Legroom was good, but seats could do with a bit more padding for boney bums like mine.

2. Not too sure about the stopover value. Getting to and from airports and all the security etc counterbalanced the break. That said, I'm not sure that my back or Gail's leg would take the long flight.

3. Eight weeks was too long for us, especially as we travelled around a bit. Having 4-7 days in places allows a more relaxed pace and a chance to cook. Got sick of cooked breakfast in hotels and finding places to eat at night. Nice for some of the time, but it's nice to do your own meals as well.

4. Handling the stress of driving is becoming more difficult as I get older. It does allows greater freedom and flexibility but we found train systems good for getting to major towns.

5. Not sure when we might go back, but found September a great time to travel in a Europe. By mid October, however, we started to find places going into winter mode and some attractions not available.

6. Spain was probably the highlight, even if we were getting a bit tired by then. Food, wine, accommodation all great value. Stunning towns like Cadaques, Salamanca and San Sebastián deserve more than 2-3 days. The only drawback was the late dinner eating that took a bit of adjusting for me.

7. Apart from Spain we enjoyed Bath and The Cotswolds, but Gail enjoyed London and Cornwall more than me. In France Bordeaux and Cordes-sur-Ciel were great stays. Provence was relaxing and enjoyable.

Almost home - Days 54-55

We survived the taxi ride from Paris centre to Charles De Gaulle airport, but not without high anxiety! Luckily I had given plenty of time as we became stuck in a nightmare Parisian traffic jam. Our Cambodian driver called upon all his experience, aggression and guile to get us there in time for check in. Plans for a relaxed meal and drink before the flight were thrown out by time and lack of Euros ( gone in the massive taxi bill).

Again pleased to have a third seat in a crowded flight to Honkers. Ready to defeat jet-lag with two nights doing very little here in Discovery Bay. The little community here seems to have all we need for a nice stay and is a far cry from the hustle of the city.

Early morning flight Sunday to be back in Oz in the evening. We look forward to catching up with all my blog readers and our family and friends in the coming months.

From our hotel window

The longest day

Last nights recommended restaurant by Camille proved to be a fitting last nights meal in Paris. A small restaurant in area of Les Halles, called L'Apibo, served an excellent 3 course menu while the rain came down outside.

Today we walked around the area of the 2nd as we filled in the day before our trip to the airport. Spent some time seeing the remarkable Opera Garnier, then walked to Le Madeleine, Place Vedome and Palais Royal.

All places we have missed in previous visits. The Opera house was a real highlight.

Today was also very cold, with single figures and a cold wind all day. Outdoor chairs at most restaurants were empty and smokers headed for protection from the wind. We will notice a difference with Hong Kong and Sydney.

Opera Garnier

Friendly French

Today was moving day as we had to catch the TGV from Bordeaux  to Paris. We are both looking forward to the flight home tomorrow evening.

While some of our dramas in France this trip have been cause for anxiety, I must compliment most of the French people who have helped us out in our times of trouble. The handbag in the taxi revealed some charming and helpful people and when I had the two tyre punctured there were some really nice people who helped us put the car in a safe place and negotiate our way to the hotel.

This morning the bad news was the Avis charge for the car, but thankfully I took out insurance protection for that. 

We took 1st class tickets on the TGV and now know why friends told us not to bother. We has to share a compartment with an American women who was very unfriendly and an older French women who took some time to get out of our booked seat. Still a great way to travel.

The arrival in our hotel Icone was very pleasant, however. The receptionist is a young women who spent 12 months in Oz. She has been very helpful in tips for eating and has promised late checkout, baggage holding and a booked taxi to the airport tomorrow evening. Takes a little weight off my mind!

A fellow first class passenger enjoying the trip.

Getting back to Bordeaux

Today was a disaster waiting to happen. We shared the chateau with a large Brazilian family who decided to party in the kitchen/lounge area next to our bedroom. They also had the room above us and stomped around in the night and early morning.

Gail woke to a migraine and I to a bad neck. Though Bordeaux was only a short drive, we decided that a stop at St Emilion for lunch would be nice.

We weren't factoring in James (SatNav) and his evil intent. He sent us through the narrowest, winding back lanes instead of the major road. The result was many near misses and just avoiding side ditches etc. Gail was feeling quite ill by the time we got to St Emilion so lunch was off her agenda.

On to Bordeaux to drop the car but 5 km from drop, I had two flat tyres! Had some fun trying to get assistance and eventually hopped a tram with all our baggage into town and hotel. From there I walked to Avis, got assistance called, then trams back to the car where the tow truck was waiting. Then another return journey on packed trams and another walk!

Straight to bar and a beer to calm down......hope this is the last travel drama!

Me and the Audio A4 in happier times yesterday

Bergerac- Day 50

Today was a few short drives in the Dordogne region visiting a few villages recommended by the Peter and Kerrie who own Tillermans restaurant in Tea Gardens and spend the French summers operating a B&B here each year.

First stop was the market town of Issigeac, with its close packed half-timbered houses. Nothing much opened so we headed off to find Montbazillac and its chateau. The drive brought us past vineyards and orchards now in "autumnal hues" (thanks Tez) and rolling hills. The chateau was most impressive but, like much of the area, is closed as we move further into October. 

Our next stop was the village they have a B&B in - Sigoules. We stopped for lunch there in a place that was only serving a Steak and chips for lunch which didn't impress Gail much.

Final stop was Bergerac where a wander revealed a beautiful historic centre, with more than one statue of Cyrano, of course! Our bed for the night is in a working winery Chateau Farcies du Pech. Big comfortable room with expansive grounds in those autumnal hues again.

Chateau Monbazillac and autumnal hues

Cyrano at home

Our chateau for the night

Adios Espania, Bonjour France

Could have stayed in San Sebastián for a few more days, but the return home journey has begun. Original plans have changed to get more of the drive over today and have a more relaxed time around the Dordogne area for a few days.

First stop is Villeneuve-sur-Lot where I have booked a nice spa hotel on the river Lot. Drove through French countryside that was a contrast to much of Spain with lots of forest and autumn colours. After our early leave, we got to the town for lunch, but found everything closed on Sunday.........except Maccas! Ashamed to say that with a toilet stop required, we had a McChicken meal for lunch.

Our hotel is just out of town and very comfortable with a good restaurant that luckily is one of the few open on Sunday night. We're pleased to eat again at a reasonable hour after finding that turning up before 9 pm in Spain is not possible.

Our Pintxos bar last night

View from our hotel on River Lot

Heady heights - Day 48

Beautiful day here, sunny and 23 so we went for the long walk to the end of the bay and caught the funicular up to the hotel on Monte Igueldo. The promenade was full of people and the hotel attracted a crowd today. No wonder, the views are spectacular over the bay and surrounding hills.

Had a relax at the top, before walking back and having late lunch near the apartment on the beach.

After an unsuccessful search for a bar that would show the Aust v Wales match, I returned to find the game had started. A panic attack was averted when a flick through our TV channels found the game.

Great defensive effort by our boys puts us through to a theoretically easier path to the final.

Back to the old town for dinner tonight and a pack to leave tomorrow for France.

Sun and Sand

Leisurely morning spoiled by workman in the apartment next door re enacting Pearl Harbour. Breakfast in and then a long walk along the promenade, the beach, harbour and then through the old town.

Earlier than usual lunch was taken in one of the fabulous Pintxos bars where you self serve then pay by the number of tooth picks on your plate. The guy behind the bar knew how many we had anyway. You could easily overdo it, as the choices were great. 

Lazy afternoon reading before heading for a late afternoon drink by the beach, a stroll and then back to the Pintxos bars for dinner. I feel guilty that I haven't done enough, but the body is happy for the break.

Sunset

Along the walk

Lunch choice

San Sebastián

Our final port of call in Spain is San Sebastián on the Atlantic Coast. We have three days in an apartment overlooking the beach to relax and enjoy the sound and smell of the sea.

Today we drove via Pamplona ( no bull) to break up the trip and to see where the running takes place. We found a parking space near the old fort tthat was built in a star design with lots of moats and thick walls. A walk in the old town revealed the streets where the bulls run. It was a nice place for a break and lunch in the park.

Arrived in San Sebastián and negotiated the tricky traffic and parking to settle into out apartment on the top floor with a great view over the beach and bay. A little washing and food shopping done we enjoyed a walk along the beach and a celebration glass of champers on our balcony.

Pamplona 

View from the balcony

Lazy in Laguardia- Day 45

After last night our tiredness has really set in. The hotel booking at its restaurant went astray and we found we couldn't get in, so we drove back to Laguardia to find a place to eat. We opted for a hotel restaurant that looked good, but turned out to be poor value.

Returned to our hotel later than planned and both of us had a bad night with stomach pains and heart palpitations. Today was a slow start and became a bit frustrating as visits to Landmarks and wineries were ruined by closures and other Spanish issues. Visited the remarkable Ysios winery twice but failed to get inside.

Spent most of the afternoon relaxing in our hotel admiring the wonderful views from the lounge and our bedroom. Made a booking in hotel restaurant again and found we were the only customers! The waiter Kris was charming and the 4 course meal with wines was exceptional. We felt like we had our own personal chef and butler. Following the meal we retired to the lounge and a group of merry English gentlemen arrived to enliven the mood with much good natured banter. To bed happy.

Ysios Winery

View to Laguardia from hotel

North to Rioja - Day 44

Salamanca was a pretty special city. We enjoyed our stay in our studio apartment very much and wandering about this beautiful place. Could anything top it?

Today was a long drive to our winery/ hotel near Laguardia in the Rioja wine area of northern Spain. Once again the highway system was impressive and we were at our hotel in the early afternoon. We grabbed a quick late lunch ( Spanish style) in the hilltop town of Laguardia where the narrow streets are  car free and the views over the surrounding country amazing.

Our hotel is part of a large family bodega Eguren Ugarte set against the rocks of the nearby mountains with spectacular views over the valley vineyards and southern mountains. After settling in we were invited on a private tour of the winery and underground caves followed by a tasting of a range of their wines, which were very good indeed. Rioja is red wine country but Gail quite enjoyed the tasting. Our guide was very sweet, the setting so alluring that we decided on dinner here in their Michelin restaurant.......maybe topping Salamanca.

Laguardia 

Our hotel

View from our room

Salamanca salut! - Day 43

Spain continues to delight and we are happy with the choice of Salamanca for a two night stop. With wonderful Renaissance buildings seemingly around every corner along with fantastic tapas bars and restaurants it is easy to spent a few days wandering. We spent some time today looking at the university buildings with their rich history and also St Esteban (Stephen) church and monastery.

The rich stone that is typical of most buildings has a special lustre in the sunlight and when lit up at night. While English is less prevalent here than Segovia, the people are incredibly friendly and there are lots of international students about the place.

Tapas food is inventive and they have a huge range of good wines at each bar. They are both very cheap, even with our poorly performing dollar.....what's not to like?

Me back at Uni

The ancient library 

Cloister at St Esteban 

Sleepless in Segovia -

Po

Choice of our hotel in Segovia proved a mistake as singing and shouting around the plaza and side street continued until rain began to fall at 5 am! Consequently we felt more hungover after the rugby than was justified.

Leaving the town we passed into wide open plains towards our next stop Salamanca. On the way my plan to visit the walled city of Avila was frustrated when police had the roads blocked into the old town. We drove around hoping to get a view, or a way in and discovered that it was a fun-run causing the traffic issues. Eventually a parking space was happened upon and we managed the walk up into the incredibly well preserved walls and explore.

Back on the roads we made a quick run into Salamanca along the excellent freeway system. Once in the city however, James kept on losing the satellite and we became lost in the maize of streets and pedestrian ways.

Eventually we found our hotel and dropped the car to walk around the corner to the Plaza Mayor, Cathedral and other impressive sites in this beautiful town. We started to become orientated and found our (hopefully) quiet square a good base.

Walls of Avila

Part of the ancient Salamanca university 

Plaza Mayor at night

WC Rugby comes to Segovia

Friday night in and around Plaza Major was jumping and kept going into the early hours. Saturday was a slow start with a little drizzle about so priority was to find a place to watch the rugby. Segovians couldn't give a toss about it, but thankfully our hotel room had it and there were three good games to watch.

Early afternoon was a walk down around the aqueduct and other fantastic sites. After lunch we headed back for a day when too much rugby was not enough. A break to eat before the big Wallabies match was thwarted by the fact that no one serves dinner before 9 pm ........ Game time!

So a quick dash to the supermarket procured food and drinks for us to settle in. Probably a good idea, as we would have got some strange looks with Gail screaming at the TV and me pacing around like an expectant father.

End result was we will have to calm down before bedtime...... Australia through to quarters!

Plaza Major will crowds celebrating Wallabies win

The Spanish Expedition - Day 40

Left the impressive Zaragoza and had a smooth expedition across central Spain to our stop for two nights - Segovia. The drive took us through more grey, dry countryside to red dry countryside. Many of the old towns were pretty run-down with crumbling buildings. By the time we joined the road for the last hour down to Segovia, the country had become a little more fertile, with trees in autumn colours along the road.

Early afternoon arrival went smoothly as we passed through narrow winding cobble streets to find a car space outside our Hotel Infanta Isabel on the Plaza Major. It's in another great location and after handing the car keys to the hotel we set off to explore this World Heritage town.

First was the magnificent cathedral right on the square and then down through the streets to the Alcazar. This Castello is perched on a cliff and has been used as a fort since Roman times. We were very impressed with the walk through its rooms and the commanding views.

Time for people watching and a drink in the plaza before a little rest and local dinner. Will explore the other sites to tomorrow.

Plaza Major and Cathedral 

Alcazar 

City walls

On to Zaragoza- Day 39

LThe day dawned bright and sunny - too late to get the best of Girona, as we faced a good drive to Zaragoza in the middle of North Spain. The drive was mostly easy on good highways and once past the outskirts of Barcelona there was little traffic. The quality of Spanish roads is very good, but it comes at a cost, as we paid 36 euro in tolls.

Entry into Zaragoza was supposed to be simple, but a closed bridge and a road direction change next to our hotel had as doing u-turns and other manoeuvres. After running to talk to the hotel it was best to give up and just take an underground carpark near the Cathedral.

The view from our room at the impressive Cathedral is brilliant and the town is wonderful to walk around. Like Bordeaux, it has a lot of wide boulevards and regular trams. Lots of history to the town as well as lots of shops and tapas bars. It is a surprise to come across such a classy city as most of the route toward it was made up of grey, dry and featureless countryside.

View from our room

Wet in Girona - Day 38

As the wind and rain  closed all outdoor cafes we set out from Llafranc on a short drive to Girona. James sent us to the wrong square to obtain a parking space, so not knowing where we were, I decided to head to our hotel and at least obtain a map. Thankfully the hotel came to our assistance by not only providing a map, but also early access to our room and an umbrella for a walk around town.

The rain did not let up, but we determined to at least see some of the old town. Disappointing that the weather was so bad because it is a very atmospheric and attractive place to look around. Lots of cobbled streets, terraced houses, fantastic shops, tapas bars and restaurants. We stopped in "Artusi" for a great 3 course menu lunch that included a main of salmon and also water and wine for 14 euro.

Walked again until thoroughly soaked then slogged back up the hill to our hotel to dry out. Think dinner in house tonight unless the rain stops.

Holiday weather - Day 37

It seems that as soon as you have a holiday by the beach it rains. Our stretch of 12 sunny days came to an end when finally there was sand and nice water to swim in. Typical of holiday towns, Llafranc is quiet in off-season, but particularly so when it rains.

The dank start to the day was a blessing though, as Gail wasn't feeling too well and I had to work on a massive sleep deficit. Our travel budget deficit may start to improve now that we are in Spain, emphasised when I bought a glass of wine that was twice the size for half the price of England.

Today we took advantage of the break in the weather to go for a walk before black clouds had us scuttling back to our hotel. Gail has curled up with a book........beach holiday indeed.

The hotel is very comfortable and seems to have a large compliment of older English people. Most of the rest of the town seems to be closing up for the winter as October approaches. We have watched a fleet of boats being hauled out of the water to be cleaned and taken to their winter homes.

Beach yesterday

Beach today

Along the Costa Brava - Day 36

We left Cadaques after a very enjoyable stay and after a few little hiccups with our navigator we wound our way back over the mountain and down into the Bay of Roses to our first stop Empuries.

This was the site of Greek and Roman settlements beginning in 600 BC. The site is a massive archaeological dig with both the early Greek city and the Roman layouts exposed. It had a good interpretive self tour set up.

 We stopped for a baguette near the beach before driving on to Llafranc for our two night stay. Got out for a stroll along the beach before the predicted wet weather tomorrow. Kept going up over the hill and along a pretty coastal walk to the next town. This is a very attractive and prosperous part of Spain.

Greek/Roman ruins

Looking back to Llafranc 

Cruising Cadaques - Day 35

Getting into the relaxed way of Spain, we had a late dinner last night after a walk around the seashore and a late breakfast this morning. Went for an explore up into the old part of town and after walking back jumped on a cruise out around the coves along the coast. Even got to see a large pod of dolphins and some interesting sights on the beaches and boats where complete swimming costumes appear optional.

Relaxed back at our hotel reading and watching WC Rugby before a wander back for dinner in the old part of town. Had a terrific seafood paella at a friendly little restaurant called La Sirena hidden in an alley up the hill. Can get used to this pace.

Hola Espania! - Day 34

The pack up and farewell went well for us this morning and we were on the road before 10.00. Just a stop to drop of all our rubbish in town before trying to find the motorway to Spain. A few strange directions from James meant that it took over an hour to get on the main road near Nimes. Once on good road the kilometres were ticked off quickly, as were the Euros in tolls.

The last section involved many hairpin turns and scary drops as we wound our way over the mountain and down to Cadaques. We were then directed through a crowded town along the waters edge to find our hotel.

Once settled we found a lovely view from our room over the bay and white-washed houses of the town. Stretched our legs in a walk around the bay where we will have quite a choice of places to eat.

View from our room

Provence finish

LToday is the last day of our stay in Provence with the Gang of Six (usually 8). It has been great to be with our friends and to take the opportunity to move at a slower Provençal pace.

The house has worked out well even though we have a couple of spare bedrooms without the Langford touring party. We missed them and hope that Al's recovery and treatment is going well.

As our last lunch out together we returned to the little town of Fontvieille and "La Patio" that Gail and I enjoyed so much 3 years ago. After the disappointment of not getting into our other restaurant in Orange, I sent a booking email to them last night. Arriving a little before the booking, we discovered that they don't take email bookings, but luckily they had a table for us........ averting much embarrassment !

The meal was of very high quality again from the amuse bouche through to the sensational desserts. The time in France has been highlighted by the wonderful food and wine, as expected........just the thing that brings the gang together. Gail and I have planned lots of walking in Spain over the next two weeks and perhaps a little less consuming.

Tonight is a last chance to enjoy our house and to mop up remaining food and wine. Tomorrow we head to Spain, while Grahams have a night in Lyon with the Thorns who return to Sydney via Hong Kong. Grahams still have Paris, London (Rugby World Cup) and Venice to go in the "Year of Tez" celebration.

Le Patio